Sari Khosor

Getting there

Reaching Sari Khosor is not easy, and that is also part of what makes it so special. The journey to the village is already half the adventure. There are no paved roads leading to the village, and regular cars simply won’t make it. The only way in is via a single rough dirt track that along the banks of Surkhob River, sometimes even going straight across the riverbed.

This route is only passable during the summer months. In winter, access is virtually impossible due to snow and flooding. Even in summer, only rugged 4WD vehicles (usually Russian-made UAZ jeeps) can tackle the terrain. These jeeps operate as a kind of informal shuttle service between Baljuvon and Sari Khosor, departing in the early morning hours.

Only a small number of jeeps make the drive every day, so pre-booking is advisable. Without a reservation, there is a chance you will be left with no transport at all. Each vehicle squeezes in up to ten people (yes, that seems to be physically possible). We have had occasions where we were driving with four (!) people, including the driver, sitting next to each other in the front row. So do not expect great comfort during the drive.

The drive takes around 1.5 hours. The road is in extremely poor condition with deep tracks carved into the mud, steep inclines, and frequent crossings through rivers. That said, the surrounding landscape is absolutely stunning: dramatic cliffs, lush forests and beautiful scenery that sets the tone for what awaits in the village.

Village

Sari Khosor (also referred to as Shahidon) is a small and serene village, nestled in a dramatic mountain landscape that feels almost cinematic. At its heart is a modest central square with a few basic shops where locals gather and supplies are traded. Beyond that, life here is simple and mostly rural.

Most residents live off the land, farming and raising livestock as their families have done for generations. There is not much in the way of attractions or activities, which is also part of the charm. It is a place where the pace of daily life seems to slow down and where you are more likely to hear the sound of a cowbell or rushing river than a car engine.

Where to stay

Accommodation in Sari Khosar is extremely limited, so do not expect a range of options or luxury amenities. During our visit, we came across just one hotel, located along the village’s main street. We were the only visitors during our stay, which added to the feeling of being completely off the beaten path.

The hotel itself was basic but functional. It had a surprisingly nice bathhouse and a dining hall on the top floor (completed with a table tennis table for some epic battles). Electricity is available, but power outages are frequent, so it is a good idea to come prepared with a flashlight or power bank.

Hiking options

The village makes an excellent starting point for hikes into the surrounding mountains or along the Surkhob River. Trails lead you through lush deciduous forests, and in spring, the valley is transformed into a painter’s palette as the bright purple from blooming Afghan redbud trees (Cercis griffithii) light up the hillsides in spectacular fashion. In the nearby village of Dashtarho, two giant hollow plane trees can be found. The hollowed out part of these trees is so big that it can easily fit multiple persons. More adventurous trekkers can venture even deeper into the valley, where a network of dozens of small villages and hidden natural spots, including impressive rock formations and waterfalls at Mullokoni village, are waiting to be discovered.